5/14/11 Bargaining

This morning we set out on our tour of “Prison Island.” To get there we took large canoe-like motor boats from Stone Town. The water is pristine aqua, navy, clear. The sky is still as blue as can be. The shade from the boat cover kept us perfectly cool.

Arriving at the island, the view of the long boardwalk and buildings and trees is dazzling. We unload on beautiful white beaches and climb the stairs to a striking pool. Apparently, “Prison Island” has been converted into a resort. It is a private island with a hotel (closed for the season)with a restaurant and tortoise petting zoo. Ok, the tortoises were pretty awesome. There are 120 tortoises kept protected on the island. They are completely domesticated and eat from people’s hands, but they are very, very cool creatures.

But, “Prison Island” is not a historical site. There are no remnants of the prison built to hold slaves until they could be sold at the slave market. There are no preserved cells, no memorials or placards or tutorials. There is a “Prison Restaurant” and a bathroom converted from a cell with a cufflink in the ground. All the walls are brightly painted and there are umbrellas over tables in the courtyard. History bargained with capitalism and lost 100%.

After lunch (grilled king fish and plaintains, yum!), we shopped. You’ve never known the meaning of “power shopping” until you’ve bargained in a market. Wow, talk about pushing one’s boundaries. Keep in mind I don’t really like shopping, even in America. I was so far out of my comfort zone, I felt as if I were in a straight jacket. Assertiveness is necessary. Brazenness to ask for a quarter of the asking price seemed impossible to me. And strength to ignore when vendors played the empathy card was required. And using Kiswahili was encouraged.

When I bargained for a midsized giraffe painting and scarf for 12,000 Tsh, I was proud of myself. (But that required walking away truthfully thinking I would not get it.) By the end of the day, my Swahili slightly improved and several gifts purchased, I was confident and enjoying shopping. These are two rarities for me often. A note: it is easier to bargain with men. Women do not lower prices as easily, are not willing to – do not have the will to? do not have the power to?

I felt that women were more often seen in the streets and shops of Zanzibar than Dar es Salaam. They still have clearly defined roles as the less dominant – in working environments, in social environments. Men and women still seem to be separated in social situations, mostly. One woman did climb on the back of a man’s motor bike last night though – which seemed risqué – maybe they were married?

Also noted, “proper” shops, as opposed to street market shops, were less likely to bargain.

We laughed and talked over dinner about our experiences in the market - references from locals to Obama-land ("Oh, we can't go any lower, Obama." "Oh, 'yes, we can.'"), the men who sent a child to show those who got lost the way back to the hotel, all the things we bought - whether we paid too much or not.

I am still proud of my giraffes. Lala salama. Good night.