5/30/11 Wrapping up

As I tuck in my mosquito net for the last night, a stroke of sadness comes over me. I really am leaving tomorrow – flying back to coffee and productivity. The 24 hour flight is not calling me. I want to stay locked beneath my blue net until it is safe to come out without the threat of departure. But alas, I must return and continue on my path. (I am looking forward to coffee, actually, and seeing my family and animals . . . and ok, I’ll admit it, I am looking forward to productivity. My lists lay in my folder waiting for my inspection and completion.)

Our last full day of Africa was free of any plans. Polina and I set out this morning for our final, final bit of shopping. Done for real now. And I got a great bargain from my rafiki, the shoe salesman. On our way back toward the hotel we stopped for some impulse purchases – Masai earrings. The man told us 1,000 Tsh each – awesome. After we paid and were about to leave, a woman speaking Swahili came up to him and began shouting. She apparently had made those earrings and was demanding that he ask more for them from us. He shook his head and waved us on as she berated him and then she began to shout at us. As we walked away, she followed us briefly. This was a very surprising encounter.

We made our way back, avoiding buses and taxis on the crowded streets like pros. Our lives still in danger, but more protected now that we are accustomed to dodging vehicles. Water and oranges purchased, we cooled off in the air conditioning just in time for the electricity to go out. It’s not too hot out today, so the intermittent electricity was not a big issue. (One father at breakfast held his baby wrapped in blankets and a hat as if it were even the slightest bit chilly. I suppose when summer is 120+ degrees, 80 degrees is cold.)

After working on my final paper (hand written!), Aja, Jessica, and I got henna at the beauty shop around the corner. The women here spoke nearly zero English and with our limited knowledge of Swahili, negotiations took nearly 30 minutes. (But they certainly weren’t going to let us walk away.) We sat getting painted one at a time while the other women (employees? family? who knows.) literally lounged on the floor and in chairs chatting loudly about who knows what. Visitors stopped in to show what they were selling today and chat with the others. A man stopped by (but did not enter the shop) to collect empty bottles to recycle. As we were waiting for our beautiful designs to dry, the ladies fixed their lunch – ugali (mounds of grits-like starch) and chicken and okra stew. They sat on the floor eating without utensils and chatting. They offered us some and told us what it was, though we politely declined. “Asante.” We thanked the ladies for their art, their company, their hospitality, and their cultural experience with a simple “asante sana” as we left.

Back at Juba, we lounged and chatted ourselves while finishing our papers (from time to time). Packing is pretty much finished (what little I am taking home). Only sleep awaits. But the sooner I sleep, the quicker the last day comes. I am fighting my burning eyes; I will give in. And I will be happy to be home. But I will miss Tanzania much.