We returned to Dar today. On our way into town we stopped at the University of Dar es Salaam. Dr. Lewis informed us that we should prepare 
ourselves for the next half of our trip. Her experiential teaching style is designed to show us the perspective of privilege and of the average Tanzanian experience, she explained. The first half of the trip – filled with western toilets, hot water (sometimes), and air conditioning – was the privilege. Now she plans to force us to explore on our feet (my favorite). Of course, our choosing to live more modestly, and our ability to escape if need be, is also a privilege.
Dr. Lewis showed us the UDeS campus where she studied intermittently during her graduate program. While tuition and fees are costly, dorms, classes, and toilets are humble. Students dress in ties and dresses for class. Classes and eating areas, while not formerly segregated by gender, tend toward this separation. (Justified by career paths and majors – most men choose science, engineering, IT, etc. . . I don’t buy it.) Of course, there appear to be more men. I asked Dr. Lewis if people educated here remain in Tanzania or go elsewhere. She said most women marry and begin families and most men do remain in Tanzania, but that some do leave.
After lunch (at 3:00, ending at 4:30), we were encouraged to explore the city. We did. Number one observation: cat calls! A girl we walked with who is quite . . . voluptuous . . . was wearing tights and a top that did not cover her rear end. Oh my, did the men pay attention. At first, we just noticed men staring – staring with no shame. Then some whistles and men calling out. When we turned the corner onto the main local market, bustling at the end of the day, men called and stared, whistled and followed us. OMG. One man walked right behind Shelli staring at her behind and smoking a cigarette. One man yelled at us – “Asante sana” something – Thanks very much (probably for the eye candy). Even the youngsters were taking in the view. Women (what few we passed) also stared with a so
rt of disdain. We stopped to let our friend change before we continued our walk. Less calls then, but staring continued.
And then, laundry. Woohoo. Talk about living the average life. Now that we have a full day in one place, the laundry will hopefully dry, hopefully, before we head up north.
By the way, no home sickness whatsoever. I miss my animals the most. (I always do.) I know that seems awful. It’s not that I don’t miss people, but I have human interaction (maybe too much) and am able to communicate with loved ones. I’m not allowed to touch the poor scraggly, mangy street cats and dogs here. In fact, the cats are purposefully kept away and the dogs don’t come near people. But they are so cute and remind me of my cuddle bums. Here, their purpose is to keep vermin to a minimum. No petting – also a public health rule.
So, in Dar es Salaam (and as I understand, in several African cities/countries) they have planned power outages to conserve energy. Why is it that we ask the most from those who have the least? Why can’t we sacrifice a little? Can you imagine an American city being asked to go without power during the days for 8 days? Many of the hotels and larger buildings have generators that sporadically provide power during the outages, but the city is largely dark outside our window and will be for the next 8 days.
Back to the streets of Dar (beyond the embarrassing/amusing/disturbing cat calls). The streets – half gravel-stone-paved, half pure mud – were filled with shops and street vendors, people cleaning cars and motorbikes, people going who-knows-where. No sidewalks mean walking in the streets with cars and bikes who do not heed to pedestrians – beep, beep . . you better move! (Side note, in the narrow streets of Zanzibar bikes were the main form of tran
sport – and most have horns to honk. One bike carrying two kids did not, so they “beep, beep”ed themselves as they rushed past us. Very adorable.)
At 6 o’clock, shops closed and everyone headed home. The bus stop is overcrowded and the buses soon to be also. Heading home, people continued to sell their trinkets and snacks – targeting those stuck in the ever present traffic jam. I’ve mentioned the dangers of traveling in Tanzania? By car, by bus, by bike, by foot – it is a daily reminder that life is precious.
Getting ready for bed is such a chore with living out of a suitcase and tucking in the mosquito net. If I forget something (like taking out my contacts – eh hem, tonight), it takes such extra time! Never mind – it is what is. (My journal, watch, and book sleep with me under my net to make things simpler.)
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